Improve user account UI

[rgrp]

1. Link at top should say "Your Account" when you are logged in
   • when not logged in should say: "Log in via openid"
   • Open Id info on /account/ should move to /account/login/ or be deleted
   • Going to /account/ when not logged in should redirect to /account/login/

2. When logged in the basic account index page should not give generic information but should reflect fact you are logged in by:

• Saying something like: "You are logged in as: ..."
• Showing your apikey or a link to apikey
• Giving you a logout link

We can think of a bunch of other stuff that could go on their (recent edits, packages you own etc) but these will be separate tickets.

[dread]

Done in changeset:f875f0f87cb1